Duncan Lu | Food | The Guardian

Vietnamese omelette with steamed rice and cucumber

Duncan Lu

Prep 5 min
Cook 20 min
Serves 4

Quick to prepare yet full of comforting flavours, this rustic dish is a staple of everyday Vietnamese home cooking. Made with eggs, pork mince, and lightly caramelised onions, it’s typically served with steamed jasmine rice, cucumber, and a chilli-soy dipping sauce. For a complete meal, pair it with a simple celery stir-fry. Duncan Lu is a Vietnamese-Australian TV food presenter, and recipe developer based in Melbourne, Australia, whose work explores the regional cuisines and migration stories that shape Vietnamese food.

6 eggs
1 tbsp water
1 tsp anchovy salt, or 2 tbsp fish sauce
½ tsp sea salt
½ tsp white granulated sugar
¼ tsp cracked black pepper
150g pork mince
Neutral cooking oil
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
2 bird’s eye chillies (optional), stalks removed
4 tbsp light soy sauce
Steamed jasmine rice and sliced cucumber, to serve

In a bowl, whisk the eggs with the water, anchovy salt or fish sauce, sea salt, sugar, black pepper and pork mince until well combined.

Heat a generous splash of oil in a large cast-iron skillet or frying pan on a low-medium heat. Add half the onion and cook for two to three minutes, until lightly caramelised. Pour in half the egg mixture, spreading it evenly across the pan – you’re aiming for an omelette about 0.5cm thick. Cook gently for three to four minutes, until the underside is set and golden, then carefully flip and cook for another two to three minutes.

Repeat with the remaining onion and egg mixture.

If using the bird’s eye chillies, crush using the back of a spoon against the base of a shallow bowl and combine with the soy sauce to create a dipping sauce.

Serve hot with the dipping sauce, if using (or just soy sauce), steamed jasmine rice and sliced cucumber.

Celery stir-fry

Duncan Lu

V, GF, DF

Prep 15 min
Cook 15 min
Serves 4

A plain and simple celery stir-fry with a pinch of salt, sugar and MSG was something my mum often cooked in the wok. As a side dish, it does not necessarily need meat, only needs umami. In this recipe, vegetarian oyster sauce and a few techniques are applied to ensure the celery is well seasoned and remains crisp when plated. Serve with steamed rice or alongside a Vietnamese omelette for a comforting midweek meal. Duncan Lu is a Vietnamese-Australian TV food presenter, and recipe developer based in Melbourne, Australia, whose work explores the regional cuisines and migration stories that shape Vietnamese food.

½ bunch celery stalks, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp neutral cooking oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp vegetarian oyster sauce or mushroom sauce
¼ tsp MSG (optional)
½ tsp sea salt
½ tsp white granulated sugar
1 tsp sesame oil (optional)
Cracked black pepper, to serve
Jasmine steamed rice, to serve

Bring a saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil. Blanch the celery and carrot for two minutes, then drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking process.

In a wok, large frying pan or cast-iron pot, add the oil and garlic to a cold pan and place on a low-medium heat. Cooking the garlic gently from cold helps prevent it from burning. Saute for one to two minutes, until fragrant.

Add the drained celery and carrot, vegetarian oyster sauce, MSG (if using), sea salt and sugar. Stir-fry on a medium-high heat for three-four minutes, until the vegetables are tender but still retain some crunch. If the veg begins to stick to the pan, add a splash of water to loosen it slightly.

Finish with sesame oil, if using, and a pinch of cracked black pepper. Serve hot with steamed rice.

Ca kho to (Coconut caramelised fish with jasmine rice)

Duncan Lu

Prep 5 min
Marinate 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

Traditionally this Vietnamese braised fish dish infuses barramundi with the aromatic flavours of anchovy salt and fish sauce and the sweetness of young coconut water. To us, this sweet, sticky and savoury dish evokes a sense of nostalgia, particularly when served with steamed rice, seasonal leafy greens and canh (Vietnamese soup). It’s also good served with a celery stir-fry. Duncan Lu is a Vietnamese-Australian TV food presenter, and recipe developer based in Melbourne, Australia, whose work explores the regional cuisines and migration stories that shape Vietnamese food.

3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 Thai shallot, or 1 small onion, peeled
2 bird’s eye chillies (optional), stalks removed
2 salmon steaks (fillets) (about 200g each)
2 tsp anchovy salt, or 4 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp neutral cooking oil
2 tbsp white granulated sugar
500ml coconut water
½ tsp cracked black pepper
30g coriander, chopped (optional)
Steamed jasmine rice, sliced cucumber and sliced tomatoes, to serve

Using a pestle and mortar, crush the garlic, shallot and chillies (if using). Transfer to a bowl with the salmon and anchovy salt or fish sauce, then rub the marinade thoroughly into the fish. Leave to marinate for 15 minutes.

In a large heavy-based saucepan or casserole pot, combine the oil and sugar on a low-medium heat. Cook gently until the sugar dissolves and turns into a deep copper-coloured caramel.

Carefully add the salmon and marinade to the pan and cook for a few minutes, stirring gently, until the aromatics become fragrant.

Pour in the coconut water and add a splash of cold water, if needed, to mostly cover the salmon. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low-medium, cover and braise for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and continue cooking for another 10 minutes, until the sauce has reduced slightly and thickened.

Finish with cracked black pepper and coriander, if using. Serve with steamed jasmine rice, sliced cucumber and tomatoes.

Anchovy chicken lettuce cups with herbs and zesty sauce

Duncan Lu

Prep 5 min
Marinate 15 min
Cook 20 min
Serves 4

Six essential ingredients (anchovy salt or fish sauce, garlic, shallots, pepper and sugar) is all it takes to transform these chicken thighs. And, when paired with Vietnamese fish sauce dipping sauce, it is the perfect family recipe that will save you time and deliver a meal rich in flavour. Leftovers also work tossed through a Vietnamese-style noodle salad bowl. Duncan Lu is a Vietnamese-Australian TV food presenter, and recipe developer based in Melbourne, Australia, whose work explores the regional cuisines and migration stories that shape Vietnamese food.

175ml neutral cooking oil
½ iceberg lettuce, or 2 baby romaine lettuces, leaves separated
100g mint
30g Vietnamese perilla leaves (optional)
30g coriander
1 cucumber, or 2 Lebanese cucumbers, sliced

For the anchovy chicken
1.2kg boneless chicken thighs, skin on or skinless
2½ tsp anchovy salt, or 5 tbsp fish sauce
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 Thai shallots, or 1 small onion, peeled, roughly chopped and crushed with a pestle and mortar
½ tsp ground white pepper
1 tsp white granulated sugar
150g rice flour, cornflour or potato starch

For the spring onion oil noodles
½ bunch spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
¼ tsp anchovy salt or sea salt
½ tsp white granulated sugar
50ml neutral cooking oil
150g fine rice vermicelli noodles

For the nuoc mam dipping sauce
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2 bird’s eye chillies (optional), stalks removed
100ml cold water
2 tbsp lime juice
4 tbsp apple cider vinegar
4 tbsp fish sauce
4 tbsp white granulated sugar

Cut the chicken thighs lengthways into large strips and place in a bowl with the anchovy salt or fish sauce, garlic, shallots, white pepper and sugar. Mix thoroughly and marinate for at least 15 minutes, or overnight in the fridge for best results.

Place the rice flour, cornflour or potato starch into a shallow bowl and lightly coat the chicken pieces.

Heat the 175ml oil in a large frying pan on a medium heat and shallow-fry the chicken for four to five minutes on each side, until golden and crisp. Transfer to a wire rack to rest.

To make the spring onion oil, place the spring onions, anchovy salt or sea salt and sugar into a heatproof bowl. Heat the 50ml oil in a small saucepan until smoking hot, then carefully pour over the spring onions and stir to combine.

Cook the rice vermicelli according to packet instructions. Drain, rinse under cold water and drain again thoroughly, then toss with the spring onion oil.

For the dipping sauce, crush the garlic and chillies using a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl and stir through the remaining ingredients until the sugar dissolves.

To serve, fill lettuce cups with a small bundle of noodles, herbs, cucumber and crispy chicken, then wrap and dip generously into the nuoc mam sauce.

Vietnamese lemongrass chicken bánh mì

Duncan Lu

Prep 10 min
Marinate 30 min
Cook 20 min
Serves 4

A Vietnamese lemongrass chicken marinade is part of almost every Vietnamese home cook’s repertoire. Whether pan-fried or grilled, lemongrass chicken is incredibly versatile and can be served with rice, vermicelli noodles or, my favourite way, in a bánh mì. This version includes lettuce, tomato and caramelised onion, additions you may not typically find at a Vietnamese bakery, but ones commonly enjoyed in Vietnamese households. In Vietnamese, bánh mì simply translates to “bread”, and much like sandwiches around the world, fillings and styles can vary greatly from home kitchens to street stalls and bakeries. Duncan Lu is a Vietnamese-Australian TV food presenter, and recipe developer based in Melbourne, Australia, whose work explores the regional cuisines and migration stories that shape Vietnamese food.

For the chicken
500-600g boneless chicken thighs
½ tsp ground turmeric
2-3 lemongrass stalks (white part only), crushed then finely sliced, or 80g lemongrass paste
½ tsp cracked black pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
2 bird’s eye chillies, stalks removed and finely chopped (optional)
1½ tsp anchovy salt or 3 tbsp fish sauce
¼ tsp sea salt
1 tsp white granulated sugar
3 tbsp neutral oil, plus extra for cooking

For the bread roll fillings
1 onion, peeled and sliced
¼ tsp sea salt
¼ tsp white granulated sugar
4 Vietnamese bread rolls or crusty rolls
78-95g canned chicken liver paté or chicken liver parfait
4 tbsp softened butter
¼ iceberg lettuce, sliced, or mixed salad leaves
1 tomato, sliced
1 Lebanese cucumber, cut into 4 slices lengthways
½ bunch of coriander, roughly chopped (optional)
2 red chillies, sliced (optional)
4 tbsp Maggi seasoning or soy sauce

In a medium bowl, combine the chicken with all the marinade ingredients and mix thoroughly until evenly coated. Leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes, or ideally overnight in the fridge for a deeper flavour.

Heat a generous splash of oil in a large frying pan on a medium heat. Cook the chicken for five to six minutes on each side, until lightly charred and just cooked through. Alternatively, cook on a cast-iron griddle pan or barbecue for the same amount of time, or air fry at 190C (375F) for 12-14 minutes. Rest the chicken briefly before slicing into 1cm strips.

Using the same pan, saute the onion with the salt and sugar for several minutes until lightly caramelised.

Slice open the bread rolls and spread with paté and butter. Fill with the sliced chicken, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, caramelised onion, coriander and chilli, if using. Finish with a generous splash of Maggi seasoning or soy sauce before serving.