Why are my scones dry? | Chefs
Why are my scones always dry and tough? And any fun flavour ideas?
Paul, by email
It mostly comes down to applying a light hand, so touch the dough only as much as is strictly necessary. “Also, although it sounds old-fashioned, always use a knife to cut in whatever fat you’re using,” says Verena Lochmuller, head of product development at Ottolenghi. “It’s OK to have a few lumps, too.” Though it might seem obvious, it’s worth checking your leavener as well: “If it’s old, get a new one,” says Lochmuller, who goes for baking powder plus baking soda or bicarb. “You’ll get more air bubbles from the bicarb, but you need something to react with it.” Her liquid of choice is buttermilk, kefir or soured cream let down with a little water.
Insufficient liquid is another possible culprit for Paul’s scone plight, says Anna Higham of London’s Quince bakery and the soon-to-open Clementine. “Depending on the weather and how old your flour is, it will absorb different amounts of liquid on different days,” she says, so it’s not a case of simply following a recipe: “It’s also about how the dough feels.” Generally speaking, the wetter it is, the better, Lochmuller says. “People think if it’s wet, it’s going to be heavy, but it’s actually the opposite.” But don’t be daft and pour all the liquid in at once – instead, go slow.
Although recipes often say to knead the dough gently to bring it together, Lochmuller says that’s not necessary: “Flour a workbench, dump the dough on top and dust it with flour. Pat it down to smooth the surface, then go in with a cutter, which has also been floured so it doesn’t stick.”
Next, on to the baking, which should be hard and fast, Lochmuller says: “None of this 180C fan business; 200C fan (425F/gas 7) minimum.” Not sure they’re ready? Higham tests her scones much as you would a sponge cake, by sticking in a skewer: “If you want to get all technical, it should be 92C on a thermometer.”
As for flavours, you can pretty much add anything you fancy, which is why scones are such a boon. Higham’s adventures often involve a devilled cheese number: “Use a nice mix of cheese – grated cheddar, blue and parmesan, say – then add equal parts smoked paprika, cayenne and mustard powder to taste.” For Lochmuller, though, savoury scones are mostly all about herbs: “Whether you go heavy on the coriander, parsley, chives, dill or basil, there’s really no herb that won’t work.” You’ve then got spices – “za’atar works so well” – and cheese: cheddar, sure, but also gruyere, feta, grated halloumi, even brie, all of which leave you with “nice bits of squidge”. And, according to Lochmuller, cold roast potatoes are really great, too: “Don’t laugh, but if you smash them with the heel of your hand and fold into the dough with salt, pepper, za’atar and cheese, you’ll get lovely bits of texture.”
On the sweet side, meanwhile, Lochmuller just gets a load of fruit in there: “Dried blueberries or strawberries are nice for pops of sweetness, and I add a little polenta to the flour for crunch.” Summer is, of course, a time for bountiful fresh fruit, but “be aware of how much liquid they’re going to add”, cautions Higham, who is partial to a blackcurrant-seeped scone. Whether you then serve them the Devon or Cornish way is your business.
